Rowan Hoskins has found his niche in Wairarapa-based viticulture. He got started in the wine industry when he found himself at somewhat of a loose end and his father – distinguished viticulturist Nick Hoskins – suggested he try his hand at winter pruning. “I did a season and never left,” says Rowan.
Rowan describes why he gravitates towards viticulture by highlighting his roots. “I spent a lot of time in vineyards growing up. I think it was ingrained in me more than I knew,” he says. Rowan also pins his attraction to viticulture on his fondness for the outdoors and working with people. “I love being out in the weather, the changing of the seasons. Plus, as a viticulturist you spend a lot of time connecting with different people. It’s a job that’s always keeping you on your toes.”
“I love being out in the weather, the changing of the seasons. Plus, as a viticulturist you spend a lot of time connecting with different people. It’s a job that’s always keeping you on your toes.”
It’s this variety that keeps Rowan going. “As viticulturists we rely a lot on Excel. Everyone has an idea of vits being out in the vines every day, but sometimes you’re HR, sometimes you’re an accountant… there’s a lot of record keeping that comes into it, but just as you start to get sick of one job, it’ll be the end of that, and you move on to the next thing.”
When asked about the sticking power of the Wairarapa, Rowan has glowing remarks about the relatively small wine region. “We’re small, but have so many wine labels and people with different ideas doing different things. It feels like we’re a progressive region even though we don’t have the capital backing that a lot of the larger regions do. We still question things and are always looking for improvement.” Rowan also points to the nature of those that are based there. “It’s collaborative – there’s always someone around willing to help and lend a hand.”
"It feels like we’re a progressive region even though we don’t have the capital backing that a lot of the larger regions do. We still question things and are always looking for improvement.”
The region’s topographical diversity – that is another reason he’s pleased to call the Wairarapa home. “Of course I love Pinot Noir, I live and breathe it. We make some of the best Pinot Noir in the country here and that’s directly influenced by the terroir. We have free-draining alluvial gravel so even on wet years we fare better than other regions, and being in the shadow of the Tararuas means we don’t get as much rain as other places.”
The elements come with their pros and cons, but the culmination means there’s something for everyone. “We’re quite open to the south so can get a lot of frosts which can keep you on your toes and out of bed, but all of that combined with the strong winds we get from the west leads to more concentrated, thicker skins, better expression of tannins and really great flavours for pinot, but also Chardonnay and some unique Sauvignon Blancs and Rieslings.”
It’s not only the people and their positive, can-do attitude that draws Rowan to the wine industry. It’s also the collaboration that occurs. “I don’t think there are many other industries in New Zealand that collaborate as much viticulturists and winemakers, especially in the Wairarapa region,” he says. It’s this interaction that led to one of the viticulturist’s biggest breaks. When taking part in the Young Viticulturist of the Year competition, industry stalwart Larry McKenna who was judging the competition, responded to a quick handed joke made by Rowan. “I’d hire you tomorrow,” said Larry. So, it turned out that later that year Larry did in fact hire Rowan who joined Escarpment to run their vineyards and hasn’t left.
Rowan is still heavily involved with the Young Viticulturist of the Year competition. He’s the Wairarapa regional organiser and judged on the interview panel in last year’s competition. This year, Escarpment will host the National Final. Rowan says the competition has helped his career “immensely”. “It’s the connections you make, both locally and nationally, and upskilling the younger generation entering the industry is rewarding in itself,” he says.
This forward-thinking view is evident when Rowan speaks to what he hopes for New Zealand’s wine industry. “We’re known on the world stage already, but there are a lot of producers doing great things and I can’t wait to see them recognised globally and for other countries to see that New Zealand can hold its own and is a force to be reckoned with.”
